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"I remember
first getting into kitchen
gadgets 'cause I got tired of doing things the hard way," said
Mike, a Salesman. "When you find something that makes a difference,
you can get really excited about it."
Like what? Well,
like the Microplane graters, those rasp-like tools that strip off the
perfect amount of zest from a lemon and the fluffiest curls from a block
of Parmesan, and caused quite a sensation among gadget lovers (including
me) when they debuted a few years ago. "I will admit to having
several sizes of these in my kitchen," he said.
As we talk, a customer
interrupts to ask Mike if he has a tortilla warmer (nope), while another
reaches high onto a top shelf for a Zyliss chopper, which is like a
manually operated food processor. I strike up a conversation with a
50ish woman, hoping to divine why she's here. "I think the less
people cook, the more gadgets we have," she says in a conspiratorial
tone. "I mean, I raised four kids and had minimal gadgets, and
now they're all grown and here I am in a kitchen store shopping for
gadgets."
She's ashamed of
herself, frankly - so much so that she won't even give me her name.
Clearly a candidate for gadget recovery, but I refrain from proselytizing.
David Stewart, a
professor of marketing at the University of Southern California, thinks
she's wrong that it's non-cooks who collect gadgets. "Whether it's
cooking that's the hobby, or computers, or audio equipment, the hobbyist
is the person who's most interested in the novel, the new gadget, even
though ultimately it may end up unused in a drawer somewhere,"
he says in a phone interview. "This is the person who can actually
imagine a circumstance where they might need to pit a cherry."
Of course, Stewart
readily acknowledges that novelty alone isn't the best reason to buy
something: "You thought it was neat, this apple corer, and then
you discover you don't necessarily need to core a lot of apples."
What if you know
that, but your friends don't? God help the minimalist cook when it comes
to gift-receiving time. Our friends get us something cooking-related,
and choose something safe, something they're sure we don't have. Of
course, if we don't have it, maybe that's because we don't want it.
At Kitchen Arts on Newbury Street, where gadget sales make up half the
revenue, owner Owen Mack sees a lot of Christmastime buying, and he
said the lack of functionality is often appreciated. "As they're
buying them, they say, 'This is silly, I know, but I'm going to give
it to my aunt, and she'll get a kick out of it.' Gadgets are not serious
purchases, like pots and pans and knives."
Mack says gadget
sales are up, and he pegs that to the economic downturn: People still
want to try new things in their kitchen, but rather than go for a $200
saute pan, they'll pick up a $24 whisk.
Julia Collin, senior editor of books at Cooks Illustrated, tries to
keep her kitchen streamlined of such excesses, but it doesn't run in
her family. Her father is a late-night TV junkie, and falls prey to
the gadget ads. "He has three types of portable ovens," she
says, "one that's just for jerky, one that's circular and inductive,
one for appetizers. And they're all in the basement."
Collin allows herself only a few indulgences: a truffle shaver she never
uses ("I think it speaks to the fantasy of having such an expensive
ingredient to play with") and an arsenal of rubber spatulas ("even
though you really only need one or two"). On her list is a high-powered
instant-read thermometer that can go from 0 to 300 degrees in five seconds.
"I don't really need it," she admits. "I have one, and
it works just fine. But I want it."
Behind the public's interest in kitchen gadgets, she says, lies the
illusion that they can greatly speed up food preparation, even though
finding the right peeler in an overstuffed drawer might take up as much
time as merely learning to properly use a paring knife in the first
place.
Sometimes, she says, the gadgets themselves add unneeded complexity
to a task. "I saw something in the Baker's Catalog recently, a
little ceramic bird that you put in a pie to release the steam. You'd
rather put an object in there rather than just cut a hole? I don't get
that."
Of course she doesn't get it. She's not an addict.
For the rest of us, aspiring to a streamlined kitchen but falling far
short, it helps to come up with some rules to help make sense out of
overwhelming choices in gadgetry.
With that in mind, I decided to test a batch of gadgets. For fairness's
sake, I chose some I knew or suspected I would appreciate (the immersion
blender), some I was pretty sure I wouldn't (onion holder), and some
I wasn't sure about (6-in-one tool). Take a look at the pictures and
captions on H1, and you'll see what I discovered.
Ultimately, the goal of the testing was to come up with a strategy for
future gadget analysis and purchase. Thus, here are three rules of resistance
I think can help any cook get that gadget monkey off his or her back.
1. Resist gadgets that do only one thing (pit cherries, for example)
unless that one thing is something you do often (juice limes).
2. Resist gadgets (such as a battery-operated vinaigrette emulsifier)
whose function is easily replicated by an existing tool (a whisk).
3. Resist gadgets that look cool (a ball whisk) unless they also operate
easily and efficiently (a steel corkscrew).
Perhaps most important, check stores' return policies, and if, after
buying a gadget, you don't like the way it works, try to get your money
back. If that doesn't work, wrap it up and save it for an unsuspecting
friend's next birthday. You're bound to know somebody who will think
it's pretty nifty. At least at first.
Gadgets
to purchase I like and use regularly.
household LaCuisine
Salsa Maker/Food Processor.household items, Do you hate to go to the
trouble of wrestling with that big, bulky, household electric food
processor you were given as a gift? This compact, easy to operate
food processor will make chopping a pleasure. It comes with two attachments,
one for chopping and one for beating. Simply place the appropriate
blade in the container, cover, turn the handle, and you are on the
way to great tasting home-made salsa, cole slaw, and spreads. You
can even make your own dips and home-made salad dressings in a snap!
Includes triple action rotary chopper, and rotary beater. Container
measures 6-1/2" x 3"
Suggested Retail: $49.90 ONLY
$35.90
household Conjure
up exciting meals with this Kitchen Magician 8pc Multi Grater Set.
Chipping, slicing, shredding, grating and garnishing are made easy.
This set allows you to prepare and present food in a way that rivals
all the great chefs and in less time, just like magic! Includes juicer,
slicer, regular grater, small grater, and garnish maker. With a handy
safety holder, the stainless steel blade processes food quickly and
is dishwasher safe.
Suggested Retail:
$49.90
ONLY
$35.90
LaCuisine 18pc Microwave Cookware Set. Microwave safe up to
140ÝC/290ÝF, refrigerator and dishwasher safe; this
set is also table serving ready. Includes a 48oz covered casserole,
four 14oz covered bowls and four 8oz covered bowls. White color. this
is a kitchen gadget you will enjoy.
Suggested
Retail: $49.90
ONLY $35.90

kitchen
home gadget Maxam®
7pc Surgical
Stainless Steel Kitchen Tool Set with tubular stainless handles and
gold colored tips on tools and rack. Set includes: slotted spatula,
whisk, solid spoon, potato masher, slotted spoon, ladle and 6 hook
rack. Tools and rack are 18/10 surgical stainless steel and dishwasher
safe. Rack stands 15-3/4" tall.
accents.
Suggested Retail:
$49.95
ONLY $35.90

Household Maxam® 7pc Surgical Stainless Steel Kitchen
gadget Set with tubular stainless handles. Set includes slotted
spatula, whisk, solid spoon, fork, slotted spoon, ladle, and 6 hook
rack. Tools and rack are 18/10 surgical stainless steel and dishwasher
safe.
Suggested Retail: $49.95 ONLY
$35.90

Whether peeling, pressing or opening cans this Chefs Secret®
by Maxam® 6pc Kitchen
home Gadget Set will be right at home in your kitchen. Includes
garlic press, peeler, bottle opener, can opener, pizza cutter and
decorative stand. Utensils are stainless steel with gold plated tips.
Stand is 10-3/4" tall with a base circumference of 5-1/4".
Beauty and capabilitya wonderful combination. Household
Suggested Retail: $49.95 ONLY
$35.90
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